Sint Maarten & Saint Martin: Two Countries, One Island, And a Helluva Good Time, Pt. 2
The French flag flies high above the city of Marigot on Saint Martin, chilling next to a bench apparently signed by fictional drug dealer Jesse Pinkman inside the remnants of Fort Louis
As you might remember, it began with an airplane — more specifically, the kind that flies right over your head as you stand on a tiny beach situated just 200 feet and a barbed wire fence away from a landing strip at a small airport on the western side of a Caribbean island comprised of two countries, despite laying claim to a land mass spanning just 34 square miles. That phenomenon, if you will, was what brought us to Saint Martin, an island in the northeastern Caribbean Sea comprised of territory belonging to the Netherlands and France. Last time, we dove into all there is to see and do on the Dutch side, but right here, right now, we’re taking a stroll down la rue.
Although we didn’t spend the night on the French side at any point, we did spend a handful of afternoons and evenings there, and I promise you it was just as enchanting, fulfilling, and adventure-laden as any of the time spent in Sint Maarten (or on Anguilla, an island just to the north of Saint Martin, for that matter). Without further ado, let’s get into it.
Saint Martin — The French Side
Getting There
If you find yourself in French Saint Martin, chances are you made your way there by first passing through the Dutch side, either as a passenger on an international flight touching down at Princess Juliana International Airport or aboard a cruise ship that came into port in Philipsburg, the capital of Sint Maarten.
Therefore, let us not dwell on this too long, other than to say the only other way one might generally get here is by flying on a small plane into Grand Case-Espérance Airport from another part of the French Caribbean (see: Guadeloupe, Martinique, St. Bart’s, and so on). I will say, though, if you find another way to make it here, do let me know; I’d be genuinely impressed.
Walking down the Boulevard de Grand Case
Where to Stay
I don’t know why we didn’t really consider renting a place on the French side, but had we done so, the options are plentiful. Most of your Airbnb’s are going to be clustered in and around Marigot, capital of the French side; Grand Case, where the airport is located; and Cul-de-Sac, an area with some amazing views near Orient Beach (which we’ll get to later). I’m not going to pretend I know a ton about any of these particular rentals — other than the fact that they range in price, before taxes and fees, from about $30/night (Petite chambre indépendant) all the way up to about $1,000/night (Villa Blue Dolphin) and beyond — but I can share a little about the areas they’re found in.
Let’s start with Marigot. As the capital of the French side, Marigot is the main hub on the northern half of the island, home to narrow streets lined with bistros, bakeries, and shops; a pair of marinas; a shopping mall called Le West Indies; and a signature historic site in Fort Louis, which sits atop a hill overlooking the bay. There’s plenty to do here, but even if you get tired of “city life,” sandier pastures are never far.
Just up the road is the town of Grand Case, home to Saint Martin’s other airport and a magnificent little stretch of northwest-facing shoreline sprinkled with bars and restaurants. While the main part of town is smaller than its counterpart in Marigot, this area is often abuzz with locals and tourists alike, and at spots like Captain Frenchy you can have lunch and drinks served to you right on the beach.
Finally, we have Cul-de-Sac in the northeastern portion of Saint Martin. This area feels more rural than the other two, and is a great place to nab an Airbnb if you’re looking to stretch your dollars a little further. That might make it sound like a less desirable place to be, but au contraire, dear reader, as there are not only plenty of highly-rated digs to be found at prices that won’t blow your face off, but you’ll also discover the close proximity to one of the most popular beaches on all of Saint Martin: Orient Bay Beach, or simply Orient Beach (which I will tell you about in just a hot second).
Grand Case Bay in all of its sandy glory
As far as hotels are concerned on the French side, some solid, well-reviewed options include La Playa Orient Bay, a 56-room hotel that has its own private stretch of Orient Beach; Grand Case Beach Club, a somewhat secluded resort just to the north of Grand Case; and Hotel L’Esplanade, a boutique hotel in Grand Case that’s collected more TripAdvisor awards than you can count.
Main Attractions/Things to Do
Similar to the Dutch side, the first thing I have to mention here are the beaches. This is a Caribbean island, after all, and relaxing with your toes in the sand and a drink in your hand should be the first activity that comes to mind. The big fish on the French side, in my opinion, is Orient Bay Beach, but before we tackle that one, let’s take a look at some of the others.
All the way on the west side, wrapped around Les Terres Basses, a neighborhood brimming with million-dollar estates, is where you’ll find Long Beach. Despite its visibility on Google Maps, many people seem to have trouble finding this beach. It’s not private (every beach on Saint Martin, including both the French and Dutch sides, is open to the public), but the road leading to the main access point is private and requires going through a security gate. Once you’re there, though, you’ll typically find you have the beach mostly to yourself.
Just to the northeast of Les Terres Basses is Baie Rouge, another no-frills kind of beach where you won’t find any restaurants, bars, or lounge chairs and umbrellas — just a nice, quiet stretch of sand that makes for a perfect spot to watch the sunset. Next to this are two communities occupying a thin slice of land which separates Simpson Bay Lagoon from the Caribbean Sea. Both La Baie Nettlé and Sandy Ground suffered heavy damage when Hurricane Irma rolled through in the fall of 2017. Some bars and hotels in the area are still in the process of recovering, but the beaches on both sides are open.
Two other beaches that merit mention are those found in Grand Case and on Orient Bay. The former, as you might recall, features about half a mile’s worth of shoreline with numerous spots to grab a bite to eat and/or get a drink, with many places offering beachside service. Those who like a happy medium — not too crowded, but not a ghost town, either — will likely be satisfied with a visit to Grand Case Beach, which is typically a lively place, but hardly overwhelming. The calm waters of the bay also make for a relaxing swim.
Yes, it’s true: at the south end of Orient Beach you will find an area that is clothing optional
But now, finally, let’s get to the beach you’ve been waiting for, one of the best (again, in my opinion) found on either side of the island: Orient Bay Beach. Stretching over a mile on the northeast side of the island, Orient Bay Beach — or simply Orient Beach — is where all the action’s at, whether you’re looking for beachside eats (and drinks), water sports rentals and lessons, or a chance to let it all hang out (and yes, that is an allusion to the far south end of the beach, where clothing is optional).
Before you rip off your shirt and drop trou, though, you might consider tending to that rumbly in your tumbly at one of the various dining establishments along the shore. Kkô Beach Bar & Restaurant is a great spot for high-end French cuisine, while Orange Fever earns high marks for its pizza and Sun Beach is consistently recognized as one of the best spots along the bay, not the least of which is because of the excellent service they provide.
When it comes to water sports, there are several outfits to choose from, each of which offer a variety of activities. Wind Adventures and Bikini Watersport are the two I will mention, as they both run the gamut. No matter what you’re after, whether it be wind surfing, wake boarding, paddle boarding, wing foil, kayaking, surfing, fly boarding, snorkeling, jet skiing, parasailing, tubing, or banana boating, one of these two will be able to accommodate you. On top of all of that, they also provide chartered fishing and sightseeing trips.
Of course, if you’d rather skip all that and just get naked, that option is available, too. The “all natural” part of Orient Beach can be found down at the south end, separated from the rest of the hullabaloo by a short expanse of dune grass. Besides fully nude beachgoers and several rows of first-come, first-serve beach chairs, down this way you’ll also come across Pirate Hideout Beach Bar & Restaurant (no links to be found, sowwy) and the remnants of Club Orient, the nudist resort that was absolutely mauled by Hurricane Irma in 2017. (The owners are attempting to rebuild, but still have a long way to go.)
A view of the harbor in Marigot from the ruins of Fort Louis
Though the preceding paragraphs may have you thinking the only thing to do on the French side is head to the beach, let me assure you this is not the case. Outside of dipping your toes in the sand, here are some other things to do/places to see:
Loterie Farm (a private nature reserve between Marigot and Grand Case featuring hiking trails, treetop obstacle courses, a pool area & more)
Fort Louis (the ruins of an 18th century fort that sit atop a hill overlooking Marigot)
Petites Cayes (a secluded spot on the northern tip of the island accessible via a short hike)
Where to Eat
Stop me if I’ve said this before, but this is the French Caribbean, for Pete’s sake! And if the French are known for one thing, fine dining is certainly near the top of the list. There are good places to grab some grub all over the French side of Saint Martin — some of which have already been mentioned (Captain Frenchy in Grand Case, for one; Kkô Beach Bar & Restaurant, Orange Fever, and Sun Beach along Orient Bay, for three more). But let’s take a moment to mention a few others.
Besides Captain Frenchy, there are a plethora of other spots to get your hands on some quality French fare in Grand Case. Right next door, in fact, is where you’ll find Rainbow Café, a self-described “freestyle beach club cafe” that is probably best known for its selection of sushi, and for serving up tantalizing tapas such as their crispy citrus tuna tataki (try saying that five times fast, right?!). Also nearby is Ciao Bella, an Italian restaurant that serves up a mean slice of pizza in a rustic yet comfortable setting.
Up the road from those three you’ll run into several other options, including Le Petite Table (French atmosphere to the nines); Le Cottage (“sophisticated and creative cuisine” that draws inspiration from the menu of a Parisian restaurant boasting three Michelin stars); Océan 82 (a vegetarian-friendly spot with amazing views of the bay); and Cynthia’s Talk of the Town (a lolo oftentimes described as a must-try).
Venture over to Marigot with me for a moment, though, won’t you? The capital of the French side would like a word here, as well. The city’s top choices include the likes of Le Sous Marin, a French bistro near the marina that receives high marks not only for its menu, but also for providing quality service and very reasonable prices; La Terrasse Rooftop Restaurant, which, on top of Le West Indies shopping mall, is the definition of dinner with a view (we’re talking sunset, baby); and La Main à la Pâte, which offers a variable three-course meal for just 19 euros.
Bruno’s Place, found along Boulevard de France in Marigot, is an unassuming street side bistro with a very local feel
I would be remiss, however, if I did not also give a special shout-out to Bruno’s Place, which is where we had our last proper meal before departing the Caribbean. This extremely unassuming street side bistro may not look like much, but the food was superb, the wine was fine, and it had a very local feel, which is always a plus in my book.
Nightlife
The after-dark scene on the French side may not be as robust, let’s say, as that found on the Dutch side, but there are still places to get your drank on, if you are so inclined. There aren’t really any clubs — save for Eros, a gay-friendly nightclub in Marigot that, at least as of February 2022, was no longer in operation — but there are a couple of watering holes in Grand Case that are open relatively late (relative here meaning about midnight).
One of those spots is a place I can’t seem to stop bringing up: Captain Frenchy. I cannot tell you how many times we heard ads on the radio encouraging us to spend our evening with the captain, who usually hosts some kind of themed event on Friday and Saturday nights, whether that be a 1980’s-era dance night, a salsa or bachata lesson, or simply live music.
If you want to keep the party going just a little longer, Quai 58 is a bar up the road that stays open until 1 a.m., which will sometimes have a live DJ on the weekends. Alternatively, hookah fans may want to check out Vivid Lounge, which has locations in both Grand Case and Cul-de-Sac.
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Interested in reading about the Dutch side of Saint Martin? Go ahead and follow this fun little link.
-LTH