Ontario, We're Onto You: Scoping Out Fall Getaways Along Lake Superior's Northern Shore
Batchawana Bay at sunset (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
*Post updated on Sept. 17, 2024
Whenever I pull up Google Maps and peer at the vastness that is Canada, I cannot help but wonder what in the world is up there. I mean, just think about it: Canada is the second-largest country in the world by land area (behind only Russia) but when it comes to population density, it ranks very near the bottom — consistently in the 220- to 230-range out of the world’s 232 recognized nations. That means a majority of its 3.8 million square miles are devoid of human life; indeed, most of the roughly 38 million-plus people that live there inhabit a southern belt that straddles the U.S. border.
That being the case, there are still stretches of southern Canada that can feel just as remote as some of the country’s northern reaches. These sparsely-populated areas make for relaxing getaways most anytime of the year, but especially in early fall when the colors are in full force. Though I haven’t made the trek myself, I’ve spent plenty of time pouring over the map, looking for hideaways sprinkled in between Sault Ste. Marie and Thunder Bay along the northern shore of Lake Superior in Ontario. And from the looks of it, there are plenty of options worth looking into.
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, may be a city with a population topping 70,000, but keep following the Trans-Canada Highway north and things get rugged real quick. Past the Hiawatha Highlands, the pitstop that is Heyden, and the small community of Goulais River, you’ll find Havilland, where the highway first meets the oft-chilly waters of Lake Superior. It used to be the case you could fuel up at a spot called Lorri’s Country Kitchen, and then perhaps walk off your meal by sauntering along the sandy shoreline of Havilland Shores Beach; however, Lorri’s closed permanently in 2021, meaning your primary (and only) hub here is McCauley’s Havilland Bay, a small motel and restaurant.
If your mission is to go even further off the grid, though, I might suggest heading west on Havilland Shores Drive along the bay. But before you set out, it might be a good idea to figure out where you’re staying, either by relying on our old pal Airbnb or by perusing the homes, cottages, cabins, and what-have-you on Vrbo.
A quick glance on the former’s website reveals a handful of attractive spots in and around Horseshoe and Sand bays, which can be found on the peninsula west of Havilland. Two that stand out are Daniel’s “Hideaway at Lake Superior”, which has all the trappings of a proper manor right along the water, and “The Bunkie at Forest the Canoe", a rustic but cozy tiny house that can comfortably fit three or four people. Over on Vrbo, you can rent a cute little beach cottage on Horseshoe Bay or one of these cozy riverside retreats along the Goulais.
A scene along the Agawa River, which runs through a southern portion of Lake Superior Provincial Park (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
Just up the Trans-Canada Highway from Havilland is a little place called Harmony Beach. There, you’ll find Harmony Beach Resort, which has a seasonal campground, as well as year-round apartment rentals. Other perfectly good options are the accommodations that can be found in Batchawana Bay. Two spots that would be tempting for any fall traveler are the very-appropriately named “Bet-Cha-Wana-Stay Deer Cabin” and “Bet-Cha-Wana-Stay Moose Cabin,” which, of course, come outfitted with fitting décor.
Near Batchawana Bay, you start getting into park-designated areas: Pancake Bay Provincial Park, which, located right along the highway on Lake Superior, comes equipped with a healthy bit of shoreline and plenty of space to pitch a tent; Batchawana River Provincial Park, which follows the waterway for a good 16 miles or so and provides canoeing and fishing opportunities aplenty; and Lake Superior Provincial Park, which covers almost 400,000 acres between Montreal River Harbour and Michipicoten, and contains miles and miles of backcountry trails, campsites, and access to plentiful rivers, streams, and inland lakes.
(There are over 100 designated parks in the province of Ontario. You can find a full list at ontarioparks.com.)
From Michipicoten all the way to Marathon 100 miles up the road, the highway swings inland, giving you opportunities to veer off onto Ontario Highway 101 at Wawa, Highway 631 in White River, and Ontario Highway 11 just before Nipigon, but staying the course on the Trans-Canada Highway does eventually take you all the way to Thunder Bay, less than 40 miles from the border with Minnesota. I could list any other number of places to stop before getting there, but the possibilities are truly endless.
Armed with Airbnb, Vrbo, and a fishing pole or two, I’m sure you’ll be able to figure something out, though.
-LTH